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How to get to Mystery Rocks.
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MYSTERY ROCKS GUIDE BOOK
Welcome to The Mystery Rocks Guide Book.

There are currently a number of ways on how to reach this particular place. For tourists and those coming from neighboring states, the best way to get to Mystery Rocks would be by taking any number of cheap Sydney flights from low cost local airlines and from there it's only a short drive away to reach the Crag. The climb up the Crag can pose a bit of a challenge and we have posted some of the problems you might encounter while climbing.

This Crag is located in Sydneys North West. Heaps of good solid rock with great landings, from steep cave to highballers.
*- There is evidence of previous climbing activity on some of the areas. Problems that could have been climbed before are marked with the asterix. Should previous first ascentionist come forward, obviously credit and namimg rights will revert back to them.
Recently Colin Larter and Niel Wallace informed me that they were climbing at Mystery Rocks way back in 1995/6.

Here are the current problems at the crag:


SECTION 1

AREA A
Face up high on hill, with small cave on the left hand side.

1/ Oversight V5 V5
Through cool scoop finishing out left through a fun mantle.
Tim Oneill, Adam Griffiths Oct 2002


AREA B
Dirty small face.

No problems yet.


AREA C [Pic]
Short face with small cave on left hand side, and another seperate small cave just above it.

1/ Moss Monster V0
Sit start on left hand side of cave, up face to mossy slab.
Rod Wills Nov 2002

2/ Discovery V1
Sit start with feet in cave, big move to start to jugs.
Rod Wills Nov 2002

3/ Its All Chips & Gravy V2
Sit start with hard move to start, jugs to top, interesting mantle.
Rod Wills Nov 2002


SECTION 2

AREA D [Pic]
High wall with good features and landings.

1/ Cool Mo D V2
Straight up through obvious scoop.
Colin Larter Late 2001?

2/ Sketch Artist V1
Up sharp crimpers to a reachy finish and welcome juggy lip.
Stephen Hawkshaw Jan 2003

3/ Palm Flapper V1
Up past some sharp crimpers to an interesting mantle.
Stephen Hawkshaw Jan 2003

4/ Tree Hugging Hippee V1
Start hands matched on low jug and up arete.
Stephen Hawkshaw Oct 2002

5/ Sand Crimping Skippy V2
Thin dynamic (Dynos) moves 2 metres right of Arete.
Josh Caple Oct 2005

6/ Down On Ya Kness V3
Dynos up obvious features, its pretty dodgy crawling off there until it cleans up a bit
Josh Caple Oct 2005

7/ Gravy Train V3*
Three finger pocket to gaston then break, left then up.
P.Reynolds Jan 2003

8/ Vine Wrangler V3
Mono to gaston, move left and up.
Andrew Secomb Jan 2003


AREA E [Pic]
Face with generally thin features.

1/ The Elipse V0
1m rt of corner, eliptical feature then up tending right.
Andrew Secomb Jan 2003

2/ Crap Off V0+
Contrived fun sillyness.Layback the left side of the fallen block and then up the arete.
Stephen Hawkshaw Jan 2003

3/ Crap on V0
Contrived fun sillyness. Layback the right side of the fallen block and then up the arete.
Andrew Morrison Jan 2003

4/ Project V?
Start just Lt of block, up crimpers, jugs at top, staying off block.


AREA F
Large boulder away from main walls.

1/ Cranky Joe V1
Standing start to two obvious big knobs then up.
Colin Larter Early 2001?

2/ Project V?
Obvious feature in centre of wall, with big move left to knobs.

3/ Slip, Grate and Bounce V2 [Pic]
Straight up blank slab, just left of block.
Stephen Hawkshaw jan 2003

4/ Project V? [Pic]
Start in right side of cave wedged between two boulders, up left to hard mantle.


AREA G [Pic]
Large high cave.

1/ Tell Him He's Dreaming V0/1
Up the left side of the cave.
Rod Wills Oct 2002

2/ One Week in a Bucket V2
Up the left sided jugs in the middle of cave, to interesting mantle.
Stephen Hawkshaw Oct 2002

3/ Project V?
Start as for OWIAB up for a couple of moves then breaks right on slopers to jugs and up as for the project to the right.

4/ Project V?
Right hand line about 1 metre to the right.

5/ Turbulence V3
2m left of edge of cave. Start on jugs and move powerfully up through roof.
Stephen Hawkshaw Oct 2002

6/ Turbidity V4
Sits start on the arete and link it into the second hold on turbulence. Long sustained classic.
Stephen Hawkshaw Jan 2003

7/ Project V?
Obvious high ball line right of cave.

8/ Heat Attack V1
Up through hole to good top out..
Stephen Hawkshaw, Andrew Secomb Jan 2003


AREA H
Boulder in front of cave.

1/ Cock Mobster V2
Sit start, up to break, left to edge and up.
Rod Wills Jan 2003.

2/ Dont Get Cocky V3
Start up Cock Mobster then traverse right to good RH jug then topout..
Paul Cook Mar 2003

3/ Half Cocked V3
Sit start to medium incut and straight up.
Paul Cook Mar 2003

4/ Project V?

5/ Project V?

6/ Project V?
Sit start to to small crimpers, then up.

7/ Bahumbug V1
Sit start,incut holds to top and over.
Andrew Secomb Dec 2002.


SECTION 3

AREA I
Face left of big cave.

1/ Fat Tongue V0
Up Arete.
Andrew Morrison Oct 2002

2/ Panic Man V1
Obvious diagonal rail, then straight up.
P Reynolds Jan 2003

3/ Lego Man V0
Up to obvious V hold and over.
Andrew Morrison Oct 2002

4/ Civil Twilight V1
Climbs obvious feature on right side of wall.
Stephen Hawkshaw Oct 2002



AREA J
Large boulder off main wall.

No problems yet.

AREA K
Large boulder off main wall.

1/ Project V?
Sit start to pocket then up.

2/ Project V?
Sit start with two finger pockets then up past cave.

3/ Skewered V0-
1m Rt of cave. Mantle up Jugs.
Andrew Secomb Jan 03.

4/ The Conqueror V0-
1m Rt of S. Up.
P Reynolds Jan 03.


AREA L
Short Wall.

No problems yet.


AREA M
Boulder off main wall.

1/ Never Trust a Junkie V2
Sit start in cave, up and left out of cave around bulge and up over top.
Rod Wills Nov 2002

2/ Bush Bash V1
Sit start on obvious jug left side of cave, moving right through cave and underclings, face to top.
Rod Wills Dec 2002

The next problems are on the monolith below main boulder,

3/ Cordon Beau V1
Start at flakes on Rt side. Up and over.
P Reynolds Jan 2003

4/ Le Menestrel V1
Lt hand arete up channel bravely.
P Reynolds Jan 2003

5/ Profiterole V2
Stenuous start, up arete.
Andrew Secomb Jan 2003

5/ Bleau V2
Balance you way delicately left of centre.
P Reynolds Jan 2003


AREA N [Pic]
Face with obvious arete in the middle.

1/ Water Hammer V0-
Up Arete and face right of cave.
Stephen Hawkshaw Oct 2002

2/ Access V0-
Up face left of Arete.
Stephen Hawkshaw Oct 2002

3/ Cool Banana's V0 *
Up knife blade arete.
Andrew Morrison Oct 2002


AREA O
Alleyway between two walls.

1/ The Brown Arete V1
Up Arete.
Andrew Secomb Jan 2003

2/ Project V?
Up face, slab to top.

3/ Day of the Triffid V0-
Straight up faint seem below gum tree.
Rod Wills Dec 2002

4/ The Scoop V0
Start at large scoop, straight up.
Rod Wills Dec 2002

5/ Fuck George Bush and his Ugly Wife V0
Up left side of Arete.
Rod Wills Dec 2002

6/ Far out Brussel Sprout V0
Up huge incut rail (pull and tread lightly) and continue to glory.
Andrew Secomb Jan 2003

7/ Mosstang sally V0
Up and over..
P Reynolds Jan 2003


SECTION 4

Leave main track to follow ridge line with several solitary boulders and two large caves.

AREA P [Pic]
Boulder with small cave on left side.

1/ Cheese Sandwich V1*
Straight out roof and up Arete.
P Reynolds Jan 2003

2/ Full Piss V0+*
Up rt hand side of cave, to obvious rail. Traverse left and up arete.
P Reynolds Jan 2003

3/ Dont Piss In My Pocket V0*
Start as for Full Piss, straight up.
Andrew Secomb Jan 2003

4/ Sketchpad V0+
Up Arete.
P Reynolds Jan 2003

5/ Off Cheese V0+
Start as for Sketchpad, traverse left along face and finish on Cheese Sandwich
A Secomb Jan 2003

The following problem is on a boulder right of P, 6 m's up the gully,

6/ Project V?
Start on arÍte with R/hand crimp at waist level step up to L/hand knob then up.


AREA Q
Boulder right of large cave.

1/ Featureless V2 [Pic]
Slab up middle of boulder.
Stephen Hawkshaw Oct 2002

2/ Juxtapose V2 * [Pic]
Start left side of boulder following the right obvious seam to the top..
Stephen Hawkshaw Oct 2002


AREA R [Pic]
Huge cave.

1/ Unknown V7/8
Start left side of cave folloing lip and over.
Matt Tait 2002


AREA S
Two scattered low lying boulders.

1/ Unnamed V0
Start with feet in cave and head straight up.
Kevin Van Tilburg Oct 2002

2/ Height is no Adversity V1 [Pic]
Just left of the boulders nose, up to undercling in break, and up.
Kevin Van Tilburg Oct 2002


AREA T
Huge cave.

No problems yet.




CRAG AT A GLANCE
No of finished problems(Completed Projects)
54
No of projects(Uncompleted)
14
Range of Grades(Completed Projects)V0- - V8

RULES:

1/ No chipping.

2/ Most of the climbs are near a major walking track so keep chalk to a minimum, ie No tick marks etc.